Pattern Hack: Zip-Up Undercover Hood
I love the slouchy, carefree look of the Undercover Hood, but I'm a girl who loves her zip-ups. I don't know why - I never ever leave them upzipped - I guess I just like options. I wanted to try this pattern with a zip-up front, and here's the result!
I used a thick, cotton sweatshirting from my stash. This fabric doesn't have much stretch, so I sized down one size in the body (the arms of this pattern are fairly fitted, so be aware of that if you want to play with the sizing) and I love the fit.
Unfortunately, the only zipper I had on hand was white, so I added lots of white topstitching to keep the look cohesive. It ended up looking pretty sporty - which is a far cry from how the pattern page looks, yeah? I'm surprised as how much I love it, to be honest!
To add a zip to this pattern, there are a couple things you need to keep in mind:
- Instead of cutting the front pieces (this includes the front, front pocket, and bottom band) on the fold. cut two of each and be sure to add a seam allowance where the fold should have been. Seam allowance is entirely a matter of personal preference, but I like having lots of fabric to play with when I'm dealing with a zipper, so I added 2cm/3/4" seam allowance.
- Make sure you stabilize that zipper opening! ;) Also, that being said, I don't think this would work too well with a super drapey fabric - try to get something that's a bit more stable, like an interlock knit, sweatshirting, or ponte.
- I used a 60cm/24"and it was juuuuust exactly the right length. Make sure you measure carefully!
- To insert the zipper, assemble the hoodie as you normally would. Once the hood and bottom band are sewn on, you can press back the front edges and sew in the zipper. Be sure to butt(heh) up the top of the zipper with the bottom of the hood, and the bottom of the zipper with the bottom of the hem band. Don't forget to make sure your pockets mach up! ;)
For fun, I added drawstrings to the hood too :) Super easy - just make sure your hood hem is wide enough to accommodate the drawstring (and by "drawstring," I mean I used super thick piping), and poke a tiny hole at the bottom of each side with scissors, catching only the top layer. Thread your drawstring through with a safety pin, and knot the ends to keep them from unraveling.
Here's the inside! Keeping with the white/blue theme, I serged all my seams in white.