La Sylphide Sewalong: Placket and Tie
Ready to tackle those plackets today, guys? Let's gooo!
I know that sewing a button placket can be a little intimidating, but fortunately this method is super easy and gives fairly consistent results! I also have fabulous news for the sheer/silky folk - we are officially done with sewing French seams! Yeeeah!
These next few steps involving the placket will work for all three versions of the pattern - blouse, dress, and skirt. For simplicity's sake, I will be demonstrating on the blouse, but the methods are the same for all versions unless otherwise noted.
Start by cutting a 3cm/1.25" strip of interfacing that is as long as the length from top to bottom of your blouse, dress, or skirt.
Remember how we fused the interfacing to the sleeve hem last week? We will be following the same method for the placket interfacing - fuse the interfacing 5mm/1/4" from the raw edge and then press the edge back over the interfacing.
Turn the placket along the line of interfacing to the right side of the garment, and sew along both the top and bottom of the placket at 1cm/3/8". Note: if you are sewing only the skirt, you only need to sew along the bottom of the placket and leave the top free.
Clip through the edge of the garment to exactly the stitch line you just made, at both the top and bottom of the placket.
Trim seam allowances and corners of both ends.
Now turn the placket so the interfacing is on the inside of the fold and press. You may use a point presser tool here to push the corners out for a nice clean edge on both ends.
Pin the long edge of the placket in place and topstitch down. Try to stay as close to the inside folded edge as possible.
That wasn't so bad, was it? Time to sew on the neck tie!
With right sides facing, sew the neck ties together at the center back. Those with sheer fabrics, you can omit the French seam here as the finished tie will be fully enclosed :)
Press the seam open - don't be afraid to deepen the existing notch so you can really get in there and get that seam nice and flat.
This next part is going to sound all kinds of wrong, but I promise it will all work out in the end! Starting at the center back, we are going to pin the necktie to the neckline edge with the right side of the tie facing the wrong side of the bodice. The line should extend all the way to the placket, where we clipped our seam allowance next to the top stitching line.
Stitch in place and press the seam up toward the neck tie.
Take the long tails of the tie and fold in half with right sides together. Stitch, starting at the inside edge of the placket (be careful to keep the placket out of the way!) and pivot at the corner of the tie, ending at the fold.
If you are making this pattern with a sheer fabric, it is very important to trim the seam allowances of the tie so they don't show through when you turn it right side out.
Now turn the ties right side out and give them a good press.
Back to the neckline section of the tie, fold under the remaining raw edge seam allowance and then pin to the right side of the bodice, allowing it to slightly overlap the first stitching line you created.
Topstitch down on the right side, staying as close to the fold as possible.
Your neck tie is finished!
Dress and blouse sewers, you are finished for this week! Skirt sewers, we have a waistband to attach. Betcha thought you were getting off easy again, huh? :)
You should have two waistband pieces from your fabric. Cut and fuse interfacing to one piece, this is now your "waistband." The remaining uninterfaced piece will now be referred to as the "lining."
Pin the waistband and lining, right sides together, and stitch along the top edge (as indicated by the pins). Open out the waistband and understitch, pushing the seam allowance toward the lining.
Turn your waistband so the wrong sides are facing and press. It should look something like this - the understitched side will pull so that it's a little longer than the interfaced side. This is good!
Now grab your skirt and pin the lining side along the top edge - right side of the lining facing the wrong side of the skirt, just as we did with the necktie (oh, you glossed over that because it didn't directly involve you? Well, it does now! Ha ha!). Leave a 1cm/3/8" overhang at each end of the waistband lining.
Stitch these pieces together and press the seam allowance up toward the waistband.
Fold the waistband down so the raw edges are even with the lining, right sides together, and stitch exactly along the edge of the placket, being careful not to actually sew into the placket. Turn the waistband right side out and press.
Now fold the remaining seam allowance under and pin to the right side of the skirt, allowing it to slightly overlap the first stitching line.
Topstitch down as close to the fold as possible.
Aaaaaand that's it! Give yourselves a pat on the back for wrangling those plackets into submission!
At this point, you will want to hang your dress/blouse/skirt overnight so it has a chance to settle before you try to hem it (otherwise you'll end up with something uneven and wonky and sad).
I'll see y'all next week for the final countdown!