Soma - Bikini Top Var. 2
Hello SOMA senoritas, are you amped and ready for the SOMA Bikini Top Variation 2 tutorial?! Once you see how simple it is to throw this Variation together you won't be able to stop making them in an assortment of colours! That's a promise. We hope you enjoy making it as much as we have.
First, lay the cup pieces on top of each other, in this order. For main fabric, the lower cup is right side facing up with the upper cup sitting on top, right side facing down. For lining, the upper cup is right side facing up with the lower cup sitting on top, right side facing down.
Lay the lining on top of the main fabric, keeping the order of layers the same as previously mentioned.
Pin together through all four layers at centre front.
Pin through all four layers at other end. The upper cups are sandwiched between the lower cups.
Make sure notches match on all four layers.
Pin at notch.
Place as many pins as you need to hold securely in place.
Sew the seam through all four layers with a long narrow zig zag stitch.
Trim excess fabric of seam allowance.
Clip the seam along the curve, which allows the seam to sit neat and flat, and removes any excess bulk.
Open out bra cups, so that the top edges of the upper cup of both the shell and lining match and also the bottom edges of lower cup shell and lining. The seams will be enclosed.
We've mentioned in our instructions that it's a good idea to neaten the edges of the bra cups to hold all the layers together but we've embarrassingly forgotten to do that! Whoopsie. If you consider yourself to be a bit of a sewing pro it's not necessary to neaten the edges but does make it a little easier to deal with!
Sandwich the completed cups between the upper edges of under bust and under bust lining with right sides together and match up notches.
Pin together, and stitch in place with a narrow zig zag.
Fold under bust pieces down so seams are enclosed.
With wrong sides facing, lay the centre triangle of main and lining together.
Baste edges together with a long narrow zig zag.
With right sides together, pin the long edge of the centre front triangle to the centre edge of the finished cup section. Sew seam with a long narrow zig zag.
Repeat for the other side.
Topstitch seam allowances towards the cups with a long narrow zig zag stitch.
Sandwich the finished front section between the back lining and back shell, making sure the right side of back shell is facing the right side of front section. Pin at side seams, then stitch together with a long narrow zig zag stitch.
Fold out so seams are enclosed. Neaten top and bottom edges.
Stitch 1cm/3/8" wide swimwear elastic all the way around the top and bottom edges, stretching it on slightly as you go.
Once you meet where your elastic started cut it so that the two ends wedge together perfectly. Zig zag the two ends together.
Fold the top and bottom edges once to the inside and topstitch down with a wide zig zag stitch.
Refer to your pattern pieces and mark with pins where the strap notches are. Cut two pieces of bra strapping approximately 50cm/20" each. With right sides of bra strapping facing the inside of back section, pin at strap notches and sew in place.
Try your bikini top on and pin straps to front strap notches. Adjust shoulder strap lengths so it feels firm yet comfortable for you then stitch in place.
Cut off excess elastic.
Voila! You have a beautiful new bikini top!